Paint + Fireplace, Oops.

I woke up today thinking it was just another normal day of painting and project contemplating. That was not the case. I’m going to let you in on a little family secret about our fireplace before I show you what I managed to do to it. My mother demands that I do not touch the all brick fireplace no-matter-what, but I can do anything else I want. I agreed to these terms, they’re not so bad. We’ll just say I got to see what the fireplace might look like if I made it white tonight, lol.

So there I was, pouring my trim paint into the paint tray on top of a piece of cardboard which was sitting by the fireplace. However then gravity went all wrong and the paint can managed to fly out of my hands dumping nearly 1/4 a gallon of white paint all over the fireplace. If someone had taken a picture of my face at that very moment I bet it would win awards, many many awards. Thankfully, the cardboard and “other stuff lying around” managed to soak up most of it, but not all of it.

After much scrubbing, water, mineral spirits, this is what’s left of the damage:

We managed to get most of it off the horizontal area, but the vertical bricks are harder. I’ve purchased a product in hopes to remove this *huge* clumsy mistake I’ve made. Lesson? You can never be too careful and be sure to use plastic drop cloths instead of thinking you’re perfect and that gravity loves you.

Oh and just between you and me, the brick looked fantastic in pure white for a few minutes. Hahaha.

White Trim Time

There’s one thing that I’m beginning to dislike about changing my house and that is painting the trim! Agggh. All of the house had almond (or I as I like to call it, yellow) trim and doors here there and everywhere. I probably would have left it but for some reason I just couldn’t deal with the yellow with white furniture I plan on having.

So far I’ve painted 3 bedrooms, and the living room’s trim as well as a couple doors. Now I must repaint the bedroom’s trim since once you remove the carpet you have the rest of the trim exposed. If I would’ve waited I wouldn’t have to do things twice, but this was a good lesson learned!

Should you use EcoProcote High-Traffic product I would suggest putting it down with something like a squeegee. We may go back over with a 3rd coat in the future with one to make it super smooth.

Now I shall go paint trim until I’m blue in the face!

Bedroom Stain Almost Done!

I’ve been so sick of sleeping in the living room so I decided to split up the work and finish the bedroom first. Let’s start where we left off…..

I almost forgot to take a picture which is why you see the gloss coat in the back, but here’s the bedroom with it’s 2nd coat of stain. (I wanted it dark and lovely.)

Applying the primer which can be the final top coat however I wanted *extra* gloss so there will be 2 more coats of a different product after this. Note: I’m quite sure I laid this down a bit too thick, but making my roller do a thin layer was not easy.

Pizza break! Isn’t that exposed light switch awesome?!

30 minutes after I laid down the first coat… (dries in 6 hours)

I’m entirely thrilled with how it’s turned out so far and I cannot wait to put on the other polyurethane-like coats tomorrow. It’s starting to come together!

Carol - November 21, 2010 - 8:04 pm

Love the way the floor looks. What brand and color is your wall paint? How has the floor help up so far? What sealer did you use?

Nice job.

Stained Floors, So Far

Here’s an update on how my stain process is going. Originally we used “staining pads” but I changed when I started doing the bedroom and used a little faux paint pad that I got from Jo-Ann’s not realizing that it would change the pattern a lot! Once I had started it I figured I liked it so I just kept going. This is how it’s turned out so far…

I cannot wait until my bed is back in here! And new faceplate covers? Luxury awaits!

A little detail.. my socks definitely add to this shot.

I still have the studio to finish staining, and that will hopefully be done tomorrow. The biggest problem with me doing it this way is it’s taking me forever! So far it’s been about 8 hours with me sitting on the floor staining, taking my sweet time and making it pretty.

Faux Christmas Tree

So now I will show you how to paint a faux Christmas tree, great for being green and for those who have no place to put a tree because their home is entirely upside down! Okay I’m just kidding, but this is our official tree this year. Haha…

We really did want to have a tree and “do it up right” with our first year in the house, but it just wasn’t happening. It probably wasn’t a good idea to start the floors in November, since I should have known they wouldn’t be finished in time.

As a side note this is my wet erase board that is from my office, that I *love*. I didn’t want the plastic looking white dry erase board. There is actually fabric in the frame and I’ll go into detail of how nice it looks later on.

Stain Has Arrived

My products have arrived to stain the floor!

So the last time I picked up two different colors and combined them was most likely during a finger painting session in kindergarten, which is exactly why this scared me a little. I was a little nervous at first on how I was going to obtain my “perfect dream color” between the light brown and black. The color I wanted was a warm dark chocolate color, not realizing (before the boyfriend mentioned it) that it would contain RED! What?! I should have known that! All in all, I did find a color I loved so it all worked out.

All concrete is different, including ours being quite different in just the 2 rooms. Depending on your original concrete color will make the product lighter, darker, or different patterns. The light brown is the Espresso, the other 2 are something around 4 parts espresso 1 part black. Note: None of these samples are the color I used.

The “test room” being the closet, here it is! (Unfinished, mind you.) The color ended up being 7 parts brown and 1 part black. We didn’t quite prepare this room as well as we should have, the flaws blend in quite well though.

A pretty shot of preparing the studio floors. Oh and is that a small peek at what I painted the walls? I think it is!

I will be finishing the floors sometime within the next 7 days. (That’s the plan, anyway!)

Damaged Concrete Doorways, Ugh!

So I did run into one small problem, the damage in front of our sliding glass doors. We figure that the floor is so crumbled and cracked because of our old style sliding glass doors which are not 100% weatherproof.

The other issue is the browny yellowish glue is not coming up. I’ve also tried a test patch and we are not going to be able to stain it. Phooey.

Here’s a couple ideas we’ve tossed around on how to fix this..
1. Just repair and paint over it. We could line just the doorways with a dark brown paint that is similar to the finished stain color.
2. Wood trim anyone? Saw down a 2″ trim piece to fit snug in the doorway, covering up the whole mess.

Anything to add to that list? Do you think one would be better over the other? If we cannot decide, we might just try both!

Ursula - July 14, 2010 - 12:34 pm

These spots were our thresholds, which we are staining thin pieces of wood and putting over these doorways. Our carpet tack spots we covered with concrete repair mix, but there is a process with repairing these spots. I’d suggest purchasing a couple different concrete repair/mixes and doing test spots. Follow instructions, you may have to sand it flat with the floor. You want to make sure it “feels” like the concrete around it as well as a close enough color.

If your cracks are shallow or simply not very big they may not show up. It’s entirely up to you to leave the spots and cracks but we chose to fill our carpet tack holes. We have maybe 2 very thin cracks we left which aren’t even noticeable.

As for our actual tack holes, they turned out “okay” – it’s all about matching the concrete that is already there. Which is not an easy as it should be, haha!

Morgan - July 14, 2010 - 9:44 am

Thank you so much for your pointers on the etching & cleaning. Now that we have up all of the boards with carpet tacks, we have found some cracks along the edges of the walls, not quite a severe as the ones you pictured above, but similar. Would you mind sharing your final solution to the crack problem?

Thanks again for your helpful tips.

Frank - January 5, 2010 - 3:36 pm

We had a similar problem with our carport floor, some ice and water snuck it’s way in there and cracked it up nice and good. We used this cement repair compound called All-Krete from http://www.deltachemicals.com/concrete-floor-repair.htm. The nice thing about it was that it was premixed and the staff are extremely knowledgeable and will help you out – even novices like me.

I think you can get it in different colors too which would solve your color problem maybe?

Good luck!

Concrete Stain Preparation

After pulling up the carpet, remove all of the tack boards and nails. (Note: DO NOT “rip out” nails if it’s ripping up your concrete. This was our problem.) If any glue is left behind the acid should eat it while etching the concrete.

So there’s one thing about staining concrete that’s very important, the concrete preparation. This is beyond preparing a wall for paint, since paint actually covers stuff and stain does not. (Especially the kind I bought!)

We went with Behr products with the etching, since originally I was going to use Behr’s Loden concrete stain. However, I found a product called Soycrete which seemed much easier to work with, and safer just in case I spilled some or went crazy sniffing the stuff. (Not to mention, Soycete is a green product.)

Etching concrete does involve acid, which is not good for skin. Acid resistant boots and gloves are highly suggested!

It’s good to pour it into a container to then pour onto the floor. It’s easier to “splash” it around pouring from the jug. By the way, you probably should wear long sleeves. It was hot though so I risked my bare arms. (and even spilled a couple drops on them, yes it stings.)

I learned the hard way! Make sure to get the acid all the way to the baseboards. Because we had so much “gunk” along the edges of our rooms it was higher than the rest of floor so we had to pour more than we thought to get it along the edges. Because this was just a closet, I left most of the gunk. (We’ll see how it turns out later.)

After pouring the acid we waited 20 minutes for it to eat away everything it could, then we scrubbed like crazy with a large bristle broom, while adding water to the floor. (More water = less foaming up) When doing this have a second person use a wetvac to suck up the dirty acid water. If your outdoor hose can reach your room it’s a lot easier than using buckets of water.

I learned the hard way! A 5 gallon wet/dry vac does NOT do the trick. I was trying to avoid purchasing a new one, but emptying this thing every 2 minutes wasn’t working out.

I bought a new one, and it’s the BEST. It’s 12 gallons and was only about $80. It is amazing for this project, and it’s just entirely awesome compared to the old one.

After cleaning the acid some scrap off anything left behind with a razor blade, it should come off fairly easy. If not, spot treat these areas with more acid and repeat the process.

All of our tack strips were glued and had nails in the concrete. Most of them broke up the concrete when we took them out, which isn’t good. (It’s not suggested to repair the concrete with a filler.) So we broke out the Dremel tool and sliced them off. Safety goggles highly suggested here.

My stain products arrive next week and we’ll be weekend warriors with more photos on the progress soon!

Ursula - July 8, 2010 - 7:35 pm

I’m glad it’s been a great help, thank you!

We did not do too much to the concrete before we applied the etcher stuff. We did sweep and do a quick mop over with just some water since it was quite dusty and dirty. Of course once the etcher goes down you will likely be using water to get it up which in a sense is cleaning the floor all over again anyway, haha.

I do want to add that I’m not sure about Soycrete’s etching/stripping process. As I recall it was quite different from the stuff I purchased at Home Depot in the photo as far as application and the directions. I’d double check with them, they are quite helpful if you call their customer support. I will suggest one thing is try to make sure you get all that white chalky stuff, adhesive, or anything else off the concrete as well as possible. Thankfully after ours was finished we agreed you don’t notice the “little spots” here and there too much, and our floor is quite dark.

Also I’d suggest checking out the new post I’m about to put up about putting on the “sealant” stuff. (If only we knew, lol…)

Morgan - July 8, 2010 - 2:50 pm

Your blog has been very helpful as I am getting ready to stain my concrete slab with Soycrete after ripping up all the carpet the day my husband and I moved into our newly purchased home.

In the first picture here before you apply the cleaner/etcher, your concrete already looks pretty clean. Did you do anything other than sweep before you applied the etcher? I am looking at the different stripping & cleaning products from the same company that puts out Soycrete and I can’t quite decide whether I can go straight into the etching or whether I need to clean and possible strip first. My concrete looks like it has a bit more adhesives than yours does in the initial picture.

Any tips would be great. Thanks again for all the helpful information on each step. Your final floor looks great.

Andrew Pelt - December 29, 2009 - 10:01 pm

Thanks for the very informative post. I have bookmarked the site as I usually do when its related to concrete.

The Biggest Project Yet

Turning the great room into my studio. This has been a planned and replanned room for months. First, I was going to lay hardwood floors, now I’m staining the concrete. That was a large jump wasn’t it? Now why am I staining the concrete instead of laying down some beautiful hardwood? I give you…

Hardwood Vs Staining Concrete
1. Stained concrete is easier to maintain, I wouldn’t have to worry about ruining my floor.
2. Staining concrete runs about $400-$800 DIY project. I’m doing about 750 sq ft. The chocolate brown bamboo hardwood quote was around $8,000 installed. (I wouldn’t chance installing such an expensive floor myself.) Who doesn’t love those numbers?
3. The wood I planned on purchasing claimed to be “environment friendly” but I’m sure using what I already have is more green no matter what.
4. Stained concrete is beautiful and modern. Two things I love.

The “maybe it’s not such a good idea” thoughts…
1. Concrete may be colder than wood, but not necessarily any different than tile.
2. If you drop something on concrete such as a glass, it’s a goner.

What if we waste $600 on all the materials, work, and then hate our stained concrete floors?! Well, we’ll deal with it until we get hardwood floors to cover it up!

The bottom line:
The carpet had to go. Immediately.

We learned that removing this much carpet really stinks, literately for us since we have pets. And you really wonder what you’re breathing when you look under old carpet, ick! It took us hours but we managed to roll up all the old carpet, padding, and scheduled the dump to pick it up. I would’ve offered someone to reuse it, but it was in bad shape.

Underneath… even a little mold by the kitchen doorway. After you remove the carpet you will have dust floating around, a shop vac is nice for cleaning up all the dust on the floor and in the air.

The studio is connected to our master bedroom, so it’s also getting new floors. Where did our new huge bed go? Why we’re sleeping in the living room for now, haha.

Finally carpet free, but tons of work to come.

Dining Area

Here’s a couple more shots of my dining area to give you an idea of the new eating area. Thankfully we’ll probably never need more than 4 seats.

Here’s the chairs before and after. The chairs were $30 from craigslist, and $28 and a staple gun later they were prettier and even more comfortable. I really wanted a nice fabric that had a little sheen to it.

For what it cost me I’ll never complain, and I actually really love my chairs. I also love my dining table considering I spent much less for it than I originally had planned.